Watch Snob: The Right Watch For A Guy Starting A Career

“Why is it that people like such blatant tie-ins to their professions in their watches?“

Rubber Bracelets?

Dear Snob,

I’ve recently been wearing my Rolex 14060M two-liner on a strap made by Rubber B. If you’re not familiar with the brand, it makes rubber straps specifically designed for Rolex pieces with end links matching up to the case perfectly. Do you think it’s blasphemous to swap out an oyster bracelet for one of these high quality rubber straps?

Rubber B sounds like a brand of birth control sold in sports bar men’s rooms across the country. If you’ve read my column at all, you’ll know that I’m not a fan of rubber straps in general unless you’re actually using your watch near water, and even then, a steel bracelet is far more versatile.

It seems that in the past decade, watch brands have decided that they can get away with putting molded rubber straps on watches that really have no business being on rubber. Is there a single owner of a Patek Aquanaut who dares dip his wrist in water beyond washing his hands during an intermission at the opera? I didn’t think so. Chalk this trend up to the over-casualisation of the world, where jeans have become acceptable at business meetings, CEOs have stubble and dress watches are over 40 millimeters. Don’t even get me started on those silly nylon ribbon straps that every hipster is wearing. Beyond my aversion to rubber straps, Rolex is one brand whose watches simply look better on a bracelet (no, those Cellini watches don’t count). So leave the rubbers for the horny uni kids.

Vacheron Constantin Inheritance

Snob,

I am turning 22 next week, and my grandma has given me my grandfather’s watch. It was bought in 1955 as a wedding present. It is made by Vacheron Constantin and has a smallish gold face. It originally came with a gold band, but my grandfather switched it for a brown leather one. I have little knowledge about watches. I am starting an internship this year and soon a career with a big accounting firm that will require me to meet with CEOs and CFOs of companies. Is this watch made for wearing on a daily basis to work? I was also wondering what a watch like this goes for. I want to get a nice watch before my career starts, that I can wear to work every day and that will impress coworkers.

You are a breath of fresh air, a 22-year-old with taste, even if you don’t know what you have. My short answer is, yes, your Vacheron is a perfectly appropriate watch to wear daily, and you’ll find you have a finer timepiece on your wrist than most of the CEOs you’ll be meeting. Whether they’re impressed by it is another matter. But subtlety is far preferable to waving around a platinum Day-Date, and those who know will appreciate your taste. I advise you to find a reputable watchmaker or make friends at your nearest Vacheron boutique and keep the watch in good running order.

You may also want to find a second watch to wear for more sporting activities. You are 22, after all, and it would be a shame to damage your heirloom timepiece during whatever adolescent shenanigans an accounting intern finds himself in. For those purposes, there are a few years’ worth of Watch Snob columns to peruse for ideas.

Question from a Watch Knob

Pardon my blue collar intrusion, as I’m probably not in your usual readers’ pay grade. But I’m an auto mechanic who happens to like watches. Given my profession, I really like the watches that look like automotive gauges. The one I like is the Giuliano Mazzuoli, but it’s too expensive for me. But I found one that has the same vibe — the CT Scuderia. Apparently, the company owner has a background in watchmaking, and the watches look well made. What do you think? Acceptable?

I can pardon a blue collar intrusion — after all, watchmaking is a blue collar profession and anyone who works with his hands has my respect. What earns you the Watch Knob moniker is your taste in timepieces. Why is it that people like such blatant tie-ins to their professions in their watches? I’ve had doctors, engineers and pilots ask me about watches that scream what they do for money. Haven’t you people heard of business cards? The best thing about the CT Scuderia is its strap, but that is worth far less than the $1,300 the company wants for this quartz stopwatch. The head of the company designed watches for Armani and Fossil — not exactly a CV I would advertise, and his taste shows. If you insist on wearing an automotive-inspired timepiece, find yourself a vintage Heuer like an Autavia or Monza, and leave the fashion fluff to the boy racers.