Watch Snob: The Non-Cliche Pilot’s Watch

Glycine

“As you no doubt know from your hours sharing cockpits and seedy hotel bars with fellow pilots, nowadays most of them wear some sort of digital nuclear-powered watch of Asian origin.“

The Watch Snob is in.

GMT-Master II: The Best Pilot’s Watch?

Dear Snob,I am a professional pilot and finally make enough money that I can afford a decent watch. I would like something with some history behind it and that’s not overly gaudy. We all know about the Rolex GMT-Master II, Breitling Navitimer, Omega Speedmaster, etc., but is there anything else out there in a similar price range with a history in the aviation world? Preferably something not worn by every other pilot or wannabe pilot on the planet.

Pilots are nerds at heart. Brave nerds, I’ll give them that. But nerds. In the early days of jet travel, this meant wearing a watch that could tell GMT time at a glance, time things to one-fifth of a second or, for the ultimate nerd, have a slide rule on the bezel. But at least these early pilot’s watches were fine Swiss mechanical timepieces rendered in satin steel.

As you no doubt know from your hours sharing cockpits and seedy hotel bars with fellow pilots, nowadays most of them wear some sort of digital nuclear-powered watch of Asian origin, usually in black with a cheap plastic strap. So unless you choose one of these monstrosities, you are really in no danger of showing up to the gate wearing the same things as your colleagues.

Wannabe pilots, also known as “IWC’s target market,” are another story. They’re the ones who shuffle back to coach class wearing aviator Ray-Bans, a faux-shearling bomber jacket and a 55-millimetre watch that looks like the ones the Nazis wore while blitzing London. Clearly the “wrong stuff.” You do not want to share your watch choice with these losers.

A GMT-Master II is a fine albeit predictable choice, and while it might attract the attention of lonely flight attendants on the road, it sounds like you’re looking for something less common. A step in the right direction would be to pick up a vintage GMT-Master, which has the dual advantage of being more affordable and eminently more stylish than the modern overpriced brute. To slip truly beneath the radar, again I say go vintage but find a Glycine Airman, the watch favoured by Vietnam-era pilots. You’ll need to get used to reading the 24-hour dial, but I’m sure you’re up to the challenge since, as a pilot, you’re no doubt a nerd.

Watch Snob Must-Haves

Dear Watch Snob,

Any watches you would love to one day acquire? Any reason why those watches are not in your possession yet?

There are several watches I would one day like to acquire, most of them one-of-a-kind pieces made by small, independent names that would be unfamiliar to all but a few of the watch-collecting world. By and large, the known brands move at a slow, predictable pace, and while Patek and Lange have some desirable pieces, they are too readily available to inspire the thrill of the chase. I’ve been playing phone tag with Roger Smith about a certain bespoke piece he is working on for me. Once that is in hand, I suspect I’ll be content for at least a few months.

Dear Watch Snob,

Could you share with us your opinion on black surface coating (DLC, PVD) on watches, as a) a manufacturer choice and b) as an aftermarket modification?

Black watches are a breach of sartorial good sense and look good with nothing. They clash badly with most clothing and make anyone of Northern European descent look as pale as a goth rocker. Watches should really only ever be rendered in white or gold metals, such as steel, white, yellow or rose gold or platinum. As a manufacturer’s choice, it’s a bad one. As an aftermarket modification, unforgivable.