Watch Snob: Should You Go For Innovation Or Tradition?

1 July 2020 By sublimated Off

Patek Philippe

“Too many silly movies about cars that turn into alien spacecraft have the nouveaux riches desiring watches that look like children’s toys.“

The Watch Snob is in.

The Traditional vs. Innovative Timepiece

Dear Snob,

From your articles, I can see that you have an inclination for simple, classical watches. So I just wanted to ask you what you think of the aesthetics of gimmicky, untraditional watches. By gimmicky, I don’t mean watches with multiple complications, but rather watches with either obscure ways of telling time or rather digressing functions like the Harry Winston Opus series (notably 11), several Christophe Claret models (notably 21 BlackJack, Baccara and X-TREM-1) or the HYT-1 from Hydro Mechanical Horologists. They all seem to be of good craftsmanship, but do you think they are mere eye-catching conversation starters that will eventually prove dull to the wearer in the test of time, or are they outlandish enough to remain entertaining?

Not so long ago, I was visiting my tailor and we got to discussing fashion trends. Now, Alistair is not a man given to trends to begin with, but he typically doesn’t render opinions on any subject unless pressed, preferring to maintain a quiet decorum when he’s in his own shop. But when the subject of the 1970s arose, it was as though I’d mentioned a bitter divorce or a bad war memory. Alistair was nearly in tears as he recounted how the leisure suits, ruffled tuxedo shirts and flared trousers of that dark decade nearly drove him out of the industry and how he despaired for humanity. It took a quickly dispensed flask of Macallan 12 to put the man right, and I vowed to never raise the subject again.

Now, a watchmaker can focus on changing the way time is displayed or he can perfect the way time is measured. As you have astutely observed, I am more given to classic designs in timepieces, preferring that watchmakers focus on improving precision, longevity and reliability through new materials, movement enhancements and techniques. I would wager that in 25 years, a Patek Philippe Calatrava will be far better looked upon than one of these so-called modern marvels. Not to mention far easier to have serviced.

There’s a reason why men like Alistair will still be making shawl-collared dinner jackets in 50 years, and, for that same reason, Patek will still be making the Calatrava. Because, while some of these avant-garde watchmakers, including a few that you have mentioned, can be commended for some innovative creations, displaying time on a tiny revolving carousel is the horological equivalent of the leisure suit.

The Ladoire Black Widow: Watch Snob-Approved?

Snob,

I have had my eyes on the Patek Nautilus for quite some time. I wanted something a little bit sporty but still a very high-end piece. Tonight I came across the Ladoire Black Widow watches, and it was love at first sight. Given the price range of these watches and the fact that spending $50,000 -$100,000 is an important decision for me, I was wondering if you could compare. I want to buy something that is truly special from all angles and could be considered an heirloom. While the Ladoire is a little bit different from a purely aesthetic perspective, what about the rest? It does say in-house movements, and the information on the website appears quite convincing, but I need to be enlightened. Is the Ladoire Black Widow a Watch Snob-approved purchase?

I see a theme in this week’s questions, and I hope it doesn’t forebode a trend in the watch world. Too many silly movies about cars that turn into alien spacecraft have the nouveaux riches desiring watches that look like children’s toys. The Nautilus and the Ladoire Black Widow should not even be uttered in the same breath. Want an heirloom to wear for the next 20 years for all the significant moments in your child’s life until you proudly bequeath it? Get the Nautilus. Want something to give your child now to drool on and zoom around the carpet making motor noises? Get the Ladoire. Then get a Nautilus for yourself.

Question from a Watch Knob

Is there any quartz watch you approve of?