Watch Snob: A Watch You Can Wear To Battle

Baume et Mercier

“God may have created man in his own image but even the best watchmakers know to leave their dials to others.“

Gun-Toting Chef

Dear Snob,I had a Rolex Air King that was stolen from me at gunpoint three years ago, when I was 22. I have since been wearing a Victorinox because of the fear of getting robbed again. You can laugh, you can hate, but, hey, I was scared. The city is safer now, and I think it’s time for me to get a proper watch again. My budget is $3,500 but can reach $5,000 if needed. My first option was another Air King, but I thought to myself that maybe I should try something different. My other options include a Baume & Mercier Hampton (only one with a leather strap), an Omega Seamaster or maybe a Speedmaster. Which one would you buy in my position? I’m a chef, working in the kitchen all day, and during the weekends I go to a shooting range, which is why I chose watches with metal straps.

There is some irony that you go to the shooting range on the weekends but you were robbed at gunpoint. But I’m just happy to hear that your lawless city is again safe enough to wear a wristwatch.

The Air King is a lazy choice. It is the poor man’s Rolex, and, while it uses the same movement as its Oyster Perpetual siblings, every time I see one, I always assume its owner was just desperate to own a Rolex and saved every last cent to get the cheapest one. Besides, you’ve already owned one and it seemed to be a magnet to marauding ne’er-do-wells.

Baume & Mercier is becoming a more interesting brand, but the Hampton is not the one to get. The new Clifton is looking like a fine watch, especially the limited hand-wound version. But its elegance just doesn’t fit with your gun-toting chef lifestyle. Somehow I can’t picture a Clifton at a gun range.

Of course, a Speedmaster Professional is never a bad choice and, of the options you presented, is the best one. If it was tough enough to survive multiple trips to space, it should stand up to flipping burgers and mean streets.

The Snob on Design “Flaws”

What are your thoughts on Zenith’s Striking 10th? I have been seriously considering buying one until I noticed the following design flaw: the 60-second counter at 6:00 overlaps the 60-minute counter at 3:00.  How, then, can you tell the difference between 35 or 36 minutes in your chronograph?

Really, this “design flaw” would keep you from buying one of the most iconic chronographs in history? Sure, you may have to wing it for that 35th minute you’re timing, but the overlapping subdials are a Zenith trademark and hardly worth quibbling over unless you’re timing something like labour contractions or a soufflé. But even if that’s the case, one minute of uncertainty probably won’t make that big of a difference.

Question from a Watch Knob

I have come to love and have a very big appreciation for finely crafted watches over the years, although most likely not as much as you. I do, however, only seem to want watches that are very special and unique, and will only invest in a watch if it has a very good movement, and, at the same time, a very unique style. Because of this, I have started looking into a possible customisation of a watch. I was wondering if you knew of any companies that provide a quality watch, but at the same time allow for a custom design of the watch face. I have no intentions of changing any of the physical components of the face, but would simply like to design my own image to be shown on the face. Any information you could provide me would be greatly appreciated.

I can’t tell if you want to add an image of your own face to the dial of a watch or just design an image of your own for it. But either way, ideas like this usually don’t turn out well, even if you could find someone crazy enough to do it for you. Perhaps a caseback engraving is a better place to start, and even then I recommend restraint. God may have created man in his own image but even the best watchmakers know to leave their dials to others.