Watch Snob: What Is The Perfect Watch Size?

IWC

“The acceptable range for most male wrists is 36 to 40 millimeters, and there’s no excuse for buying larger unless you’re a sumo wrestler.“

The Watch Snob is in.

The Perfect-Sized Watch

Dear Snob,

I bought my first “real” watch, an IWC Mark XVI last year. I’m sure you’ll think it a somewhat pedestrian choice, but I bring it up because the watch fits perfectly on my wrist and I absolutely love it. It is not too big and not too small. As you’ve mentioned in your columns, most of the makers of better timepieces keep upping the size. I was wondering if you may have any insight from the manufacturers if there is any hope of this trend actually reversing. Most of these inflated watches look silly — and especially on people like me who do not have particularly large wrists. Also, in your opinion, how much should one’s wrist size play in their purchase?

You are correct: The Mark XVI is a pedestrian choice, but you are also correct in saying that it is a perfect size. I’ve said it before, 39 millimeters may be the perfect size for a man’s watch. So what did IWC do this year? It made the new Mark XVII larger. Someone needs to tell the company that increasing the Mark number doesn’t necessitate increasing its diameter.

I do not have insight from manufacturers about their size trends. What I do know is that most of the brands that I hold in highest esteem still make watches in modest, respectable sizes, though Lange has scared me by increasing the size of the Datograph dangerously close to an unacceptable diameter. The acceptable range for most male wrists is 36 to 40 millimetres, and there’s no excuse for buying larger unless you’re a sumo wrestler.

Your wrist size should have no bearing on your watch purchases unless you are drawn to one of the behemoths that are too often the subject of readers’ questions. In that case, you deserve whichever ill-fitting watch you choose.

A Good Choice For $5K Or Less?

Hi Snob,

I am writing to get your advice on a watch purchase for my nephew. He is approaching his 13th birthday, and given the importance of that birthday in my Jewish heritage, I feel this is time to introduce him to fine timepieces. Not long ago he commented on my A. Lange 1815 chronograph, so I was thinking about buying him a chronograph of his own. My initial choice was the Blancpain Leman Flyback, but when his father (my brother) heard of my plan, he made it clear that such a gift would be “too much,” and demanded that I if I insist on purchasing my nephew a timepiece, that it cost $5,000 or less (it’s times like these when I remember he is my stepbrother). I’ve decided to acquiesce to my brother’s wishes instead of starting an intra-family feud by going ahead with my original plan. So I turn to you for advice as to what would be an appropriate gift for this occasion.

A suitable gift for a 13-year-old? How about a bicycle? You should be able to stay well under $5,000 and avoid your stepbrother’s ire unless you go for a carbon-fibre racing bike that the kid will grow out of it as soon as he hits puberty anyway.

I’m all for introducing young men to timepieces, but unless this little blighter is writing sonnets and playing Mozart, he’s not going to care whether it’s a Lange or a Longines. He’s hardly lived long enough to earn a proper timepiece. I don’t care if he’s Jewish or Chippewa — turning 13 isn’t exactly an accomplishment. I got my first Patek when I graduated high school, and even that was a family heirloom. My advice? Wait until he’s 18, and then decide which watch to get him and whether he deserves it. After all, he is your step-nephew.

Whatever became of your review of a Kobold watch?

Let me be clear: the Watch Knob in this question is not the inquirer but the subject of his question. Not that I was holding my breath, but after countless inquiries from my staff, Kobold has ducked and dived more times than a candidate at a debate.

It appears that I will not be receiving a Kobold watch to review, which is a pity, since I had planned the perfect venue in which to test the timepiece in its intended element. I had organised a challenging undercover mission to collect sacred rocks from the summit of Dhauligiri, accompanied by Sherpas, after which we were going to hang glide to base camp, where I would teach them the art of watchmaking by disassembling the Kobold to assess its workmanship. But, sadly, this is not to be.

My offer stands to other watch brands that perhaps feel the Snob has not given you a fair shake. Step out from behind your ads and press releases. I promise an unbiased review of any timepiece of your choosing. My anonymity allows me to be honest, which can be to your benefit or your peril.