The Lone Respectable Watch From A Forgotten Brand

Glycine

“A watch named after the genus of the soybean plant does not inspire confidence.“

How Do Glycine Watches Compare?

Dear Snob,

I’d like to know your opinion regarding Glycine watches. How does this company stack up against other European watch makers, such as NOMOS Glashütte? While I would admit that some of the models are quite large in diameter, I also see some interesting collections that are less “significant” in stature.

Glycine is not a watch brand that comes up in conversation often, and, frankly, a watch named after the genus of the soybean plant does not inspire confidence. To compare its watches to those of NOMOS is to do a grave disservice to the latter, which is a legitimate manufacture, whereas Glycine is a relic of a formerly respectable company slapping a logo on ETA movement watches.

There is really only one Glycine worth a second look, and that, of course, is the Airman, and then only out of historical interest. This was the 24-hour watch that the company released in the 1950s and which became popular with — surprise! — pilots as well as foot soldiers in the 1960s.

I’ve never really liked watches that display time on a 24-hour dial. I’m not on military time, I’m not living in some godforsaken place that has 24-hour darkness (or daylight), and I like to know the time at a glance without having to remember that I’m wearing a watch like the Airman whose hour hand runs half as fast. But if you’re into that sort of thing, the Airman is a reasonable choice out of a thankfully small list of alternatives.

Jumping Hour Watches

I am looking for a new watch. I am curious about jumping hour watches but can’t afford a Lange. I have found three within my budget: one from Christopher Ward, one from Perrelet and a Classima Jumping Hour from Baume & Mercier. I like the Perrelet the most because it is smallest, but I know it is made by Festina (thanks to you) and that makes me skeptical. What do you think of these three choices? Thanks for your advice.

I’ll confess I had to look up Christopher Ward, having not heard of this brand before, and while most of the company’s collection is forgettable chaff, the Harrison Jumping Hour is a respectable timepiece. Though it’s based on a very pedestrian movement, it has been modified to a less-pedestrian complication, and well done at that. What kills this watch in my mind, though, is its size. Why they insisted on making what is clearly a dress watch in a 43-millimetre size is a mystery to me.

I’m not sure Perrelet is even making its jumping hour anymore. It seems to be focused on turning every one of its watches into the gimmicky “turbine” style, including even a chronograph and a pornography watch, which I wrote about previously. Baume & Mercier is a brand that continues to impress, and the Jumping Hour Classima is a fine piece that features an even more modified movement than the Christopher Cross, er, Ward, that you like. Alas, even Baume, who usually does a nice job with dress watches, has bloated the Jumping Hour to 42 millimetres. What is the world coming to? Even dress watches are supersized now. I am starting to think I am a lone voice crying out in the wilderness.

Another option to consider is the Bell & Ross (that was hard to say, really) WW1 Heure Sautante which, despite also being large, is perhaps the most elegantly done of the lot. In platinum, it won’t be cheap, but then nothing of quality ever is.

Question from a Watch Knob

I don’t wear a watch because I don’t do things according to others’ time. In fact, people do things on MY time, which is whenever I want something done. What do you think of THAT?

I will not respond to this obviously drunken rant from an inbred half-wit but am posting it today just to show readers what I have to deal with on a weekly basis. And people wonder why I am the way I am.